![]() What is an Ohmįirst of all, ohms represent a unit of measurement for resistance, and when it comes to vaping they translate to how difficult is for the electrical current from the battery to pass through the heating coil. For this reason I decided to take some time and write this article about vaping ohms explained, so that any e-smoker, regardless of his or her experience with e-cigarettes could understand the differences between coils. If you're familiar with the online communities you're probably hearing a lot about sub ohm vaping, twisted coils, direct lung hits and massive clouds but for a beginner these terms might be confusing and could give you the wrong impression about the general aspects of vaping.Įvery week I answer to several email and dozens of chat requests where people ask me what ohms should they choose, if sub ohm vaping is better than regular vaping and why is the vapor coming off their newly bought mod so hot. The collapsing of the primary and then coerresponding collapse of the secondary causes the transfer of voltage to the plug.Since the introduction of the electronic cigarette a few years ago, the vaping industry has been continuously shifting towards newer products and vaping styles and one very important aspect of this transition is the ohms we're vaping on today. I thought that the primary coil induced the higher voltage into the secondary (being wound tighter and with more wndings). If the condenser were to build up more than 13 or so volts,then if it were to release it on that shared line I would think it would fry the fuel pump and blow the MIL. The leads from the regulator goes to the "shared" hot to the ECU, condenser, coil, fuel pump and MIL. ![]() Stator leads go directly to the regulator. I agree with everything you guys have mentioned it just doesn't follow the script with my wiring diagram. Unforunately beyond the coil the other parts are different. ![]() I will also test the meter for catching the 100v since it is a working bike. Later today I will test coil (still thinking this by the K.I.S.S. I want to thank you both for your help and truly appreciate the suggestions. If the manual is like most Honda manuals I've had, there isn't a dynamic test for the CDI/ECU but rather a process of elimination - if everything else is good then it must be the CDI/ECU is the logic I've seen in them. The ECM (used to be we called it a CD - capacitive discharge - ignition) should internally control the timing of the discharge. ![]() I'll let Paw delve deeper with you but the job of the coil is to boost the voltage for ignition. The fellow I lean on for electrical issues (because, thankfully, in all my years of messing with these things I've only had a few electrical issues and they were all minor and easy, so I don't have the expertise he does due to lack of experience) uses an analog PV meter so he can see the response (he's been at the same dealership for 38 years, so he's not a snot-nosed hack). ![]() The Honda manuals I've had show a PV adapter to capture PV on a digital but I suspect there are digitals with the feature built in. The reason I ask is that I've seen digital meters that don't/can't sample/respond quick enough to capture the true peak voltage. I see Paw has already gotten to you but here's my 2 cents. ![]()
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